The join-the-dots method is an excellent method to keep in mind when developing your artworks, as it allows for more flexibility and 'smoothing' of the edges. It is in no way required though, and I'll give a quick discussion on why at the end of the page. For now, here's how it works!
The Method
In short, the join-the-dots method is a way to draw a straight line from one point to another point, regardless of what lies in between. You can use it to cut across bodies of water, uncrossable roads like freeways, and other walls in your path. It's also very simple to use with either a running watch or tracking app. Simply turn your watch or app off at the point where the straight line starts, make your way to the end of the line, then turn your watch or app on again. Watch this handy video for a visual example! Written instructions are at the base of the Strava map on the right.
To be honest, there seems to be a bit of contention between artists on this method. I've seen some who use it exclusively, whereas others consider it cheating because it isn't exactly the path you have taken, thus making it not 'true' GPS art. As for me, I try to pick a location where I won't have to use it more than 10-15% of the route. My goal is for somewhat biologically accurate proportions, so exceptions are sections that are actually impassable (construction sites, cemeteries, rivers) or if, by not using it, the only path adds body parts that aren't there (usually horn-like projections). Regardless of what location I choose, there will almost always be one or two sections where join-the-dots is required due to the geography of Sydney (more on Sydney geography here).
An Example
I have actually tried a run where I planned for a considerable amount of join-the-dots. You can see the route I actually ran (using RideWithGPS) on the left, and the join-the-dots route on the right. See the discrepancy in distance and time: it will definitely mess with your stats!
The echidna's beak is a good example of when to use join-the-dots: the beak is certainly not accurate otherwise! It actually took much more planning and commitment than most of the regular runs. I really needed to keep track of when my watch was on and off. See below:
At the green circle I turned my watch off, then ran to the first spike (see route on right). I then turned my watch on at the purple tip of the spike, waved my hand around in the air for a second to make sure it registered, then turned it off again and ran to the next circle. Rinse and repeat. The majority of the echidna's back was with my watch off, hence the distance discrepancy!
Choose whether you want to use this method or not. It's entirely up to you, no way is wrong as long as you put passion into the design and it works out for you!